I have personally used all three of these printers, so this comparison is based entirely on my own experience in everyday workshop use.
You can easily find and compare all the technical specifications, screen resolutions, advertised speeds and other numbers on paper. That is not what I want to focus on here.
I want to talk about what actually matters to me in real production: how convenient these printers are to use, how they handle large models, how many parts can fit into a single print, how predictable they are, and what kind of print quality you actually get.
One important note before we start: I returned the Elegoo Jupiter 2 to the seller less than a month after buying it. My particular unit had many problems from the very beginning, so I have less experience with it than with the two Anycubic printers.
Still, I had almost a month to test it, and I also spoke extensively with a friend who owned the same printer. In the end, both of us returned our Jupiter 2 units — for different reasons.
So this is not a laboratory test and not a comparison copied from specification sheets. It is simply my experience using these machines for real production in our workshop.
Contents
- 1. Size and build area
- 2. Print quality
- 3. Print speed
- 4. Reliability and stability
- 5. Ease of use and maintenance
- 6. Slicers, Wi-Fi and cameras
- 7. Smart print assistants and automatic monitoring
- 8. Final verdict
1. Size and build area
All three printers belong to the large-format resin printer category, but in this section the Anycubic P1 Max is the clear winner for me.
The M7 Max and Jupiter 2 have fairly traditional rectangular build areas and are relatively similar in shape.
The P1 Max has roughly the same maximum print height, but its biggest advantage is its significantly greater width.
- M7 Max / Jupiter 2: approximately 30 × 16.5 cm
- P1 Max: approximately 28.5 × 21.5 cm
Yes, the P1 Max is slightly shorter on one axis, but those additional centimeters of width make a huge difference.
The platform is much closer to a square shape, which makes it far easier to arrange large statue parts, bases and multiple figures at the same time.
And in real workshop use, this difference feels much bigger than the numbers suggest.
Practical example: Geralt
One good example is our Geralt statue with an overall height of approximately 28 cm, which we have printed many times.
Before getting the P1 Max, printing one complete set required one full build plate on either the M7 Max or Jupiter 2, plus another print on a smaller printer such as the Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra.
On the P1 Max, the entire set fits in a single print — with room left for four interchangeable heads.
For production work, that difference is huge: fewer print cycles, less preparation, less washing and generally much higher productivity from one machine.
Geralt — the entire 28 cm statue set arranged on a single P1 Max build plate.
Practical example: two different projects on one build plate
Another recent example shows the advantage of the P1 Max build area even better.
On a single build plate, I was able to fit parts for a 20 cm Pyramid Head & Nurse diorama together with a 25 cm Dutch van der Linde figure.
These are two completely different projects, both with fairly large parts, prepared for the same print cycle.
This is exactly where the almost square build area of the P1 Max becomes so useful.
It is not simply about having a large build volume on paper — the proportions of the platform allow me to use that space much more efficiently.
In production, this can mean combining two separate customer projects into a single print instead of using two printers or running two consecutive print cycles.
For a workshop, that is a very significant productivity advantage.
Two separate projects on one build plate: a 20 cm Pyramid Head & Nurse diorama and a 25 cm Dutch van der Linde figure.
2. Print quality
This is probably the part where specifications on paper matter the least to me.
When I talk about print quality, I do not simply mean whether a printer is capable of reproducing chainmail, fabric texture, ornaments or other highly detailed surfaces.
Even a printer with lower effective resolution can reproduce those elements surprisingly well.
For me, the real difference becomes much more obvious on smooth curved surfaces: cheeks, foreheads, noses, necks and other areas where there is nowhere for layer artifacts to hide.
This is where I can clearly see the difference between these three machines.
Anycubic Photon Mono M7 Max
The M7 Max is absolutely capable of reproducing a lot of fine detail.
However, on smooth facial surfaces I can often see characteristic contour-like layer traces.
They are especially noticeable on cheeks and other softly curved areas. This is what I mean when I say that the M7 Max is behind the P1 Max and Jupiter 2 in terms of pure surface quality.
It is not that the printer cannot reproduce small details. The problem is that smooth surfaces reveal its limitations much more clearly.
PHOTO — M7 Max: close-up of the face where the contour-like lines are clearly visible.
And to make this comparison fair, here is the opposite example.
On heavily textured parts, the M7 Max can still produce an excellent amount of detail.
This part from the Mask Keeper from Expedition 33 contains a large number of small faces, ornaments and surface details, and the printer reproduced them very well.
PHOTO — M7 Max: detailed Mask Keeper leg from Expedition 33.
So I would not describe the M7 Max as a printer that lacks detail.
Its main weakness is specifically the cleanliness of smooth surfaces, where layer structure becomes much easier to notice.
Anycubic Photon P1 Max
The P1 Max is noticeably stronger in this area.
Smooth facial surfaces look much cleaner, while very small details in hair, clothing, ornaments and facial features remain sharp.
One of the best examples I tested was a project by an incredibly talented and experienced Ukrainian 3D artist, Natalia, who kindly provided these models for my own use.
For this test I printed the character heads as completely solid parts.
Each head weighs approximately 70–80 grams, so these were not lightweight hollow test pieces.
The P1 Max handled them extremely well.
PHOTO — P1 Max: Yan Ptachek and Henry heads together.
The difference is particularly visible on faces.
There is fine sculpted detail, hair strands and subtle facial geometry, but the smoother areas of the skin remain much cleaner than what I normally see from the M7 Max.
PHOTO — P1 Max: close-up Yan Ptachek heads.
The same applies to highly textured parts.
Fine ornamental patterns on clothing remain clear and well defined.
PHOTO — P1 Max: detailed ornamental clothing piece.
And the chainmail is another good example.
Individual links remain clearly separated and readable across the surface.
PHOTO — P1 Max: chainmail detail.
For me, this is the important difference: the P1 Max can reproduce very fine textures while also keeping smooth surfaces clean.
Elegoo Jupiter 2
In terms of pure print quality, the Jupiter 2 also impressed me.
Whatever problems I had with the printer itself, print quality was not one of them.
The Ellie and Joel heads I printed on the Jupiter 2 were hollow inside, but the outer surfaces were extremely clean.
On their faces I could not see the same obvious contour-like layer traces that I regularly notice on the M7 Max.
PHOTO — Jupiter 2: Ellie head.
PHOTO — Jupiter 2: Joel head.
The Jupiter 2 also handled very fine fabric texture and small clothing details well.
Joel's shirt is a good example: the fabric structure remains visible across the entire surface together with seams, pockets, buttons and folds.
PHOTO — Jupiter 2: Joel shirt and fabric texture.
Print quality: my conclusion
So the important distinction here is not simply whether a printer can reproduce small details.
The M7 Max can reproduce very fine detail extremely well on heavily textured parts.
Its disadvantage becomes much more obvious on smooth curved surfaces, where contour-like layer traces are easier to see.
P1 Max and Jupiter 2 handle both fine textures and smooth surfaces more cleanly, which is why I consider them stronger overall in terms of pure print quality.
If I had to rank these three printers based only on the quality of the finished surface, my personal experience would place the P1 Max and Jupiter 2 clearly ahead of the M7 Max.
3. Print speed
Here the situation changes completely.
In terms of speed, the M7 Max is the clear winner for me.
It is already fast out of the box, and with some profile adjustment it can become even faster.
With dedicated Fast / High-Speed resin it can be dramatically faster still, although I personally use regular resin.
M7 Max vs P1 Max
I printed a part approximately 30 cm tall on both printers using my normal working settings.
- M7 Max: 14 hours 45 minutes
- P1 Max: 16 hours 24 minutes
The P1 Max also spends a few minutes heating and mixing the resin before printing.
Even without counting that preparation time, the M7 Max is still faster.
And again, this result was achieved with regular resin, not high-speed resin.
With dedicated Fast / High-Speed resin, the M7 Max can print several times faster.
A difference of around an hour and a half may not sound dramatic for a single print, but in a workshop where printers are running constantly and one project may require dozens of print cycles, those hours accumulate very quickly.
Jupiter 2
The Jupiter 2 was strange in this respect.
With the default settings, a print around 30 cm tall would take approximately 38–40 hours.
I honestly do not understand why the factory profile was configured that way.
After adjusting the settings myself, I managed to reduce the same type of print to around 17 hours.
That brought it much closer to the P1 Max.
However, at those faster settings I frequently started seeing visible horizontal lines on the prints.
I cannot say with certainty that this was a fundamental problem with the Jupiter 2 design, because my particular unit already had many other issues.
Based purely on speed, my ranking is:
M7 Max → P1 Max → Jupiter 2.
4. Reliability and stability
For me, this is one of the most important parts of the entire comparison.
A printer can be fast, large and technically impressive, but for workshop use I need to know what will happen when I press Print.
Predictability is extremely important when a single print can take 15–20 hours and use a significant amount of resin.
Elegoo Jupiter 2
I had almost a month to test the Jupiter 2, and I also spoke extensively with a friend who owned the same printer.
In the end, we both returned ours.
The interesting part is that our problems were different.
He had one set of issues, while my printer had completely different ones.
Because of that, it is difficult for me to dismiss the whole experience as one defective unit.
Most of my time with the printer was spent leveling the platform, investigating failed prints and communicating with technical support.
Automatic leveling did not work properly on my unit, and successful prints were simply not consistent enough.
The frustrating part is that when the Jupiter 2 actually worked correctly, the print quality was genuinely excellent.
That is why I still think the machine has strong potential.
But during my time with it, it felt like a product that was simply not fully finished yet.
Two of the failed prints I had on the Elegoo Jupiter 2. Unfortunately, these are just two examples out of many failures I experienced during my time with the printer.
Anycubic Photon Mono M7 Max
I have been using the M7 Max for around a year.
My experience with it is almost the opposite of the Jupiter 2.
With most normal resins, it is an extremely reliable working machine.
Standard resin, ABS-like resin, Touch resin, transparent resin and white resin all work without serious problems for me.
However, I have one strange long-term issue with high-detail resins marked HD / 8K / 12K / 14K.
With the 14K detail resin I use, the printer behaves unpredictably.
It can produce five perfect prints in a row and then suddenly begin having parts detach from the build plate.
I changed the build plate.
I changed the vat.
I tried different settings.
I spoke with many people who work with resin printers.
Nobody has been able to clearly explain why this happens.
But the important part is that this problem appears to be related specifically to certain high-detail resins.
With other materials, the M7 Max is stable and reliable.
If I ignore my own stubborn attempts to make it work perfectly with that particular resin, it is honestly a very good production machine.
Two examples of the same recurring issue on my M7 Max: parts detach in almost the same area of the build plate. Sometimes the failed area is smaller, sometimes larger, but this problem appears only when I use textured or high-detail resin.
Anycubic Photon P1 Max
The P1 Max has been the most predictable printer of the three for me.
And for production work, that may be its biggest advantage after the build area.
Print after print, the behavior is very consistent.
Support removal feels predictable, removing parts from the build plate is easy, and the machine does not constantly force me to adjust settings or troubleshoot something new.
During all my time using it, I have not had a single print detach from the build plate during the initial layers.
I did experiment with increasing the print speed until it was close to the M7 Max.
The printer handled it, but I started seeing slightly worse print quality: more visible lines and some deformation on thin elements such as hair, straps and similar parts unless I added extra supports.
So I returned to the standard settings.
It is slightly slower this way, but the result is clean, stable and extremely predictable.
P1 Max — a single transparent part measuring approximately 37 cm tall and 20 cm wide. This is exactly where the size and shape of this build plate become hard to compete with.
P1 Max — a large 30 cm wall section weighing almost 1 kg, printed as a single piece.
Noise level
Another practical difference between these three printers is noise.
M7 Max is by far the loudest of the three.
It produces a noticeable constant hum while it is running. In a separate workshop room this may not matter much, but if you spend many hours working close to the printer, you definitely hear it.
Jupiter 2 is also fairly loud, but in my experience it is still noticeably quieter than the M7 Max.
The P1 Max behaves more like a refrigerator.
When its compressor or active heating system turns on, the noise level becomes similar to the Jupiter 2. But once it switches off, the printer becomes very quiet and you mostly hear only the movement of the build platform.
So in terms of noise, my ranking from quietest to loudest would be:
P1 Max → Jupiter 2 → M7 Max.
5. Ease of use and maintenance
Elegoo Jupiter 2
Visually, the Jupiter 2 is probably the most futuristic-looking printer of the three.
Its side-by-side style doors look great, although they also mean the printer requires more free space on both sides.
Removing the build plate, removing the vat and cleaning the printer are otherwise fairly standard operations.
Resin vat and automatic resin feeding
One unusual design decision is the size of the resin vat.
Despite the very large build area, the vat holds only approximately 700 ml.
For comparison, even the much smaller Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra has a vat capacity of more than one liter.
For large and long prints, 700 ml may simply not be enough.
Because of this, the automatic resin feeding system is not really just an optional extra on the Jupiter 2 — it is practically necessary.
Unfortunately, the first auto-feed unit I received was defective and resin leaked all over the table around the printer.
This could have ended much worse because the power connections and electronics are located on the rear of the printer, while the official bottle holder sits directly above that area.
Before my first print I decided to place the resin bottle separately on the table behind the printer instead of using the original holder.
That decision probably saved the printer from a much more serious accident.
I later found reports from other users describing similar issues.
To be fair, Elegoo support was excellent.
After I contacted them, they immediately offered to send a replacement resin-feed module free of charge.
If that had been the only problem with my Jupiter 2, it would have been easy to solve.
Film replacement
One thing Elegoo did well is film replacement.
The film comes already installed in a plastic frame, so there is no need to manually tension it and deal with a large number of screws.
In Ukraine, a set of three replacement films costs approximately 5,000 UAH (around $110).
The printer recommends replacing the film after approximately 50,000 layers.
I returned mine at around 49,000 layers, so I never actually replaced it myself.
Elegoo Jupiter 2 — general view of the printer with the side-opening doors, build plate and resin vat visible.
Anycubic Photon Mono M7 Max
The M7 Max is very traditional.
The cover lifts upward, so you need some free space above and behind the printer.
The build plate is removed using screws, and the vat is fixed in the usual way.
There is nothing fundamentally wrong with this.
These are simple, proven solutions that do not bother you — until you try something more convenient.
Film replacement is completely manual.
You have to remove a large number of hex screws, replace the film and assemble everything again.
For me, this takes around 30 minutes.
A set of five replacement films costs around 3,800 UAH (approximately $85) in Ukraine.
The printer recommends replacement at around 50,000 layers.
Anycubic M7 Max — a 30 cm part in progress. This printer is one of the fastest in this comparison when it comes to large prints.
Anycubic Photon P1 Max
This is where Anycubic made a major step forward in everyday usability.
Both the build plate and resin vat can be removed without unscrewing anything.
Quick-release mechanisms lock both components in place.
When you use a printer every day, this becomes extremely convenient.
One warning: the P1 Max build plate is very heavy.
When it is covered with a large print, supports and resin, handling it is not particularly easy.
The cover opens upward, and Anycubic finally added a proper dedicated handle.
It sounds like a small detail, but it means you no longer have to grab the transparent cover itself every time and cover it with resin fingerprints.
One thing I do not like is the completely flat top surface of the build plate.
Resin collects there after printing and cannot naturally drain away.
I usually scrape the excess resin back into the vat with a plastic scraper and then place the build plate into its draining position.
There is an important detail here: when the plate is positioned for draining, it sits at an angle above the vat.
If you have very tall parts on the plate, they can touch the film.
During my first prints I had a sword come dangerously close to puncturing the film this way, so this is something worth paying attention to.
Draining a nearly full vat is also not particularly comfortable.
But the vat itself is huge, so there is no perfect solution here.
The P1 Max resin vat holds approximately 1.9 liters of resin, which is a huge capacity compared with the other printers in this comparison.
For large-format production this is a major advantage, because long prints and large parts can consume a significant amount of resin without requiring constant refilling.
P1 Max film life
At the time of writing, I have already printed approximately 80,000 layers on the original film and the printer has not yet asked me to replace it.
I ordered replacement films directly from Anycubic in advance.
A set of five cost me approximately 2,900 UAH (around $64).
I also ordered another set from AliExpress for approximately 3,500 UAH (around $77) including delivery, and those were perfectly fine as well.
Depending on where you buy them, a set of five can cost approximately 5,000–5,500 UAH (around $110–120).
Like the Jupiter 2, the P1 Max film comes already installed in a plastic frame, so replacement should be much faster than on the M7 Max.
From my own experience, the nFEP film in the P1 Max lasts roughly twice as long as the ACF film in the other two machines.
This is only my personal observation, not a guaranteed lifespan for every user.
Anycubic P1 Max — the large resin vat and spacious working area are clearly visible here.
P1 Max — because the top of the build plate is completely flat, excess resin does not drain naturally. I usually push it back into the vat manually with a plastic scraper.
P1 Max — the build plate in its draining position. This works well, but long parts can come dangerously close to the film, so extra care is needed.
6. Slicers, Wi-Fi and cameras
Elegoo Jupiter 2
This is probably my biggest software complaint.
I normally use Chitubox.
During my time with the Jupiter 2, proper Chitubox support was still unavailable despite Elegoo saying since June that integration was coming.
The printer effectively forced me to use Elegoo's own slicer.
In my opinion, that slicer was unfinished, slow and significantly less functional than Chitubox.
My workflow ended up looking like this:
Chitubox → supports and positioning → export STL → Elegoo Slicer → slice for printer.
Using two programs just to prepare one print is not something I expect from a printer in this class.
Jupiter 2 Wi-Fi
Wi-Fi technically worked on my unit — until I actually used it.
Whenever I transferred a print file over Wi-Fi, the printer could freeze during printing.
And this was not just a frozen interface.
After the crash, the machine would stop working properly until I performed a complete factory reset and firmware rollback.
This happened repeatedly, so I eventually stopped using Wi-Fi altogether.
Anycubic Photon Mono M7 Max
There is much less to say here because the M7 Max has been on the market for a while and the software ecosystem is already mature.
It works with normal third-party slicers including Chitubox.
Wi-Fi works as expected.
Through Anycubic's slicer you can transfer files wirelessly, although personally I still prepare everything in Chitubox and transfer files using a USB drive.
There is no built-in camera.
The Anycubic mobile app works well.
You can monitor print progress, change available settings, pause a print or stop it completely.
Anycubic Photon P1 Max
The software experience is very similar to the M7 Max, but the P1 Max also includes a camera.
Through the mobile app you can open the camera, switch on the internal light and monitor the print remotely.
The camera angle is fairly narrow.
If a large part is positioned directly in front of it, that part can block almost the entire view of the rest of the build area.
Still, the camera is useful to me for one particular reason.
I have a habit of checking the first layers of almost every print.
The P1 Max lid is so dark that even with the internal lighting turned on, it is difficult to see what is happening inside from outside the printer.
The camera solves that problem.
To be fair, during all my time using the P1 Max, I have not had a single print detach from the build plate during the initial layers.
So these constant checks are probably more about my own habits after a long time working with resin printers than an actual necessity with the P1 Max.
Anycubic mobile app with the P1 Max camera feed — print progress, remaining time, pause/stop controls and Smart Check are all available remotely.
7. Smart print assistants and automatic monitoring
Modern resin printers advertise more and more intelligent features: automatic leveling, resin monitoring, failure detection, debris detection, automatic peel-force adjustment and so on.
For me, the important question is not whether these features appear on the specification sheet.
The important question is: do they actually work when something goes wrong?
Elegoo Jupiter 2
I do not remember the exact full list of automatic functions on the Jupiter 2, but in my case it did not matter very much.
Even basic functions such as automatic leveling did not work properly on my unit.
So evaluating the printer's additional smart features would not really be meaningful based on my experience.
Anycubic Photon Mono M7 Max
The M7 Max advertises AI print monitoring, failure detection, resin checking and intelligent peel-force and speed adjustment.
In my experience, the only feature from that list that appears to be consistently useful is the intelligent peel-force adjustment.
I have had many failed prints on the M7 Max due to the high-detail resin issue described earlier.
There were plenty of detached parts.
Not once did the printer stop the print or notify me that something had failed.
It would simply continue printing until the end.
I also never saw it reliably detect small broken supports or debris at the bottom of the vat.
The printer does display the estimated amount of resin required for a print, but this number comes from the slicer.
In my experience, that estimate is almost always too low.The M7 Max does have an automatic resin-feeding system, and for most users it seems to work normally. However, not everyone uses it or finds it convenient, so this point mainly applies when printing without automatic resin feeding.
If you are not using the auto-feed system, you still need to monitor the actual resin level yourself during long prints.
It is entirely possible to print most of a large part only to discover that there is not enough resin left to finish it.
Anycubic Photon P1 Max
The P1 Max includes all of these monitoring features plus additional resin management functions.
It can mix the resin before printing and heat it not only before printing but also during the print and while the machine is idle.
More importantly, I have already seen its safety systems work in real life.
One day the P1 Max refused to start a print because it detected a foreign object in the vat.
I checked the vat with a plastic scraper, mixed the resin and looked carefully for anything unusual.
I could not find anything.
I almost assumed it was a false sensor warning.
But I decided to trust the printer and completely drain the vat.
During draining, I found a tiny piece of support around one millimeter in size.
That was exactly what the printer had detected.
For resin printing, this is a genuinely useful safety feature.
A tiny cured fragment between the build plate and film can potentially damage the film or create much more serious problems during the next print.
Leaving resin in the vat
Another interesting thing I noticed with the P1 Max is how well the resin behaves when left inside the machine.
I can leave resin in the vat for two or three days and visually it barely separates.
On my other printers, after only around one day, the pigment starts settling noticeably and the resin changes color as it separates into layers.
Normally I would drain it back into the bottle and mix it properly before printing again.
With the P1 Max this problem is significantly less noticeable.
I suspect the tightly enclosed design plays a role, and the printer also mixes the resin automatically before the next print.
8. Final verdict
Elegoo Jupiter 2 — great potential, but still too unfinished
After almost a month with the Jupiter 2, my conclusion is that it is a very unfinished machine with real potential for the future.
When it works, the print quality is genuinely excellent.
The bigger question is whether Elegoo will fully develop that potential — especially while proper support in the most popular slicers remains an issue.
At the time of writing, the official European price of the Elegoo Jupiter 2 is approximately €900 (about 46,000 UAH).
At that price, if you receive a trouble-free unit and you are comfortable using Elegoo's slicer, it could potentially be a very good purchase.
But that is the main issue:
When it prints, it prints beautifully. The problem is that it does not always print.
For me, buying one today would still mean accepting a significant amount of risk.
Anycubic Photon Mono M7 Max — the workhorse
If I ignore my stubborn attempts to use one specific category of high-detail resin, the M7 Max is a genuinely excellent production machine.
It can print a massive object approximately 30 cm tall in around 15 hours.
And again: that is with normal resin, not high-speed resin.
With dedicated Fast / High-Speed resin, it can print several times faster.
At the time of writing, the official European price of the Anycubic Photon Mono M7 Max is approximately €749 (about 38,500 UAH).
For that price, I honestly struggle to name another printer offering the same combination of size, speed and productivity.
It is especially good for large parts, bases and environmental elements where ultra-fine surface quality is not the highest priority.
For me, it is a true workhorse.
Anycubic Photon P1 Max — the clear winner for me
The P1 Max is the most expensive printer in this comparison, although the difference is actually very small compared with the Jupiter 2.
At the time of writing, the official European price of the Anycubic Photon P1 Max is approximately €959 (about 49,000 UAH).
That means there is only around €59 between the official European prices of the P1 Max and Jupiter 2.
For me, that makes the choice between these two machines much easier.
As the owner of a workshop, the P1 Max is simply on another level.
All of its small disadvantages have already been mentioned above, and none of them are particularly important to me.
Its greatest advantage is the build area.
The almost square shape of the build plate is incredibly useful.
I have managed to print single parts approximately 37 cm tall and 20 cm wide, as well as large wall sections around 30 cm tall and weighing almost 1 kg.
For a resin printer, these are extremely impressive real-world results.
And the important part is that these are not theoretical build-volume numbers from a specification sheet.
These are parts I actually print in everyday workshop use.
Print removal is easy.
Support removal is soft and predictable.
The prints are stable and consistent.
Most importantly, the machine is predictable.
I experimented with increasing the print speed until the P1 Max was almost as fast as the M7 Max.
The printer handled it, but I started seeing a slight reduction in print quality: more visible horizontal lines and deformation of thin elements such as hair, straps and similar details unless additional supports were added.
So I returned to the standard settings.
It is slightly slower this way, but everything is clean, stable and predictable.
So which printer would I choose?
M7 Max is an excellent workhorse for the money.
At approximately €749 (about 38,500 UAH), it offers a huge print volume and excellent speed.
It is particularly useful for large parts, bases and objects where maximum surface quality is not essential.
Jupiter 2 has real potential, but today I still consider it too risky.
At approximately €900 (about 46,000 UAH), it could be an excellent machine if you receive a good unit and are comfortable working with Elegoo's software.
Personally, I would not take that risk again.
P1 Max is the clear winner of this comparison for me.
At approximately €959 (about 49,000 UAH), it costs only around €59 more than the Jupiter 2 at official European pricing.
Its build plate has no real equivalent among these three machines.
It produces cleaner surfaces than the M7 Max, supports normal third-party slicers, has genuinely useful automatic monitoring features and has been extremely predictable in production.
For a home user, the price may still be difficult to justify.
But for a workshop, I consider the P1 Max almost a must-have.
In my workflow, two P1 Max printers can replace approximately five or six medium-format machines such as Saturn Ultra printers, especially when producing large statues and dioramas.
Print quality remains comparable to high-quality smaller-format machines, while the productivity advantage is enormous.
So for me, the Anycubic Photon P1 Max is the obvious winner and, today, a true flagship in its size class.
I hope my first-ever article helps someone choose the right printer.
Everything written here is based entirely on my own experience using these machines in our workshop.
None of the manufacturers paid me for this review.
Unfortunately 😂
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